Repair guide

How to replace brake discs

The brake disc turns with the wheel and is gripped by the brake pads when the vehicle brakes; it wears thinner with use and can be damaged by heat and corrosion. Brake discs are replaced as a pair on an axle and together with new brake pads. This guide covers replacing brake discs that are slid over the wheel hub and held by the wheel, on the front or the rear axle of a passenger car or light commercial vehicle. It does not cover discs that form one part with the wheel bearing or sit behind a hub that has to be dismantled, drum brakes, opening the hydraulic system or bleeding it. It describes the job in general: brakes differ between vehicles, and your vehicle manufacturer's procedure and the instructions supplied with the discs take precedence wherever they differ.

Published

Safety

This job affects the brakes, steering or suspension, where a mistake can cause an accident. Use the vehicle manufacturer’s procedure and tightening values, and have the work checked by a workshop if you are not certain of it. Test the vehicle at low speed in a safe place before you drive on the road.

Secure the vehicle before you start: on level ground, with the parking brake applied and the ignition off. If the vehicle has to be raised, support it on axle stands, never on a jack alone. Where this guide and your vehicle manufacturer’s instructions differ, follow the manufacturer. If a step is unclear, leave the job to a workshop.

Find the parts for your vehicle

Choose your vehicle to see what is listed for it as Brake Disc: OE numbers, aftermarket part numbers and each part’s specifications as its supplier states them.

Tools

  • Everything the brake pad guide lists for changing the pads of the axle concerned
  • Jack and axle stands made for the vehicle's weight, and wheel chocks
  • Wheel wrench that fits the wheel fixings and, where the wheels have locking fixings, their adapter
  • Sockets and bits with a handle long enough for the caliper carrier's bolts, an exactly fitting bit for the disc's locating screw, bolts that fit the disc's threaded holes for pulling it off where it has such holes, a soft-faced hammer and, where the parking brake's shoes have to be backed off, the tool the procedure names for their adjuster; the vehicle manufacturer's procedure says which
  • Torque wrench or wrenches that cover the tightening values for the carrier's bolts, the caliper's fixings, the disc's locating screw and the wheel fixings, and an angle gauge where a specification gives further tightening by angle
  • Micrometer or caliper gauge that reaches past the ridge at the disc's edge, for measuring the thickness of a disc
  • Where the procedure provides for measuring run-out: a dial gauge with a stand, and what the procedure names for clamping the disc to the hub
  • Wire brush or hub cleaning tool for the hub's contact surface
  • Brake cleaner and a tray to catch what runs off
  • Hook or wire for hanging the caliper from the suspension
  • Camera or pen and paper to record how the brake is assembled
  • Torch or inspection lamp
  • Dust mask, eye protection, gloves that resist brake cleaner, and sturdy shoes
  • Clean, lint-free cloths

When to replace brake discs

Brake discs are not replaced at a fixed point: how quickly they wear depends on the vehicle, the axle, the pads and on how and where the vehicle is driven. Their thickness and their condition decide. Every disc has a smallest permitted thickness, which the vehicle manufacturer gives and which is as a rule also marked on the disc; where the supplier of a brake disc states it, the vehicle's part page shows it beside that part number. A disc is replaced before it reaches that thickness. Follow your vehicle manufacturer's schedule for inspecting the brakes, and have the discs measured whenever the pads are changed.

Have the brakes inspected without delay when you notice one of these:

  • The brake pedal or the steering wheel pulsates or shakes when braking
  • Scraping, grinding or rubbing noises when braking
  • A pronounced ridge at the outer edge of a disc, deep grooves in its braked surfaces, or cracks
  • Blue or dark discoloured patches on the braked surfaces
  • Heavy corrosion on the braked surfaces that braking no longer removes, above all on the inner side of a disc
  • The vehicle pulls to one side when braking, or the braking distance has become longer

Replace a disc that is at or below its smallest permitted thickness, that would reach it before a new set of pads is worn, or that is cracked, deeply scored, damaged by heat or badly corroded on its braked surfaces. The inner side of a disc often wears and corrodes more than the outer side and cannot be judged through the wheel: the thickness is measured with the wheel off. Pulsation when braking has other causes too, such as corrosion or dirt between the disc and the hub, a hub or wheel bearing that does not run true or has play, wheel fixings tightened unevenly, and worn suspension or steering joints; new discs do not cure these faults, and they can make a new disc run out of true. A caliper that does not slide or a piston that does not return can overheat a disc and wear it on one side.

Do not drive with a brake disc that is cracked, worn below its smallest permitted thickness or being ground by the backing plate of a worn-out pad. Such a disc can break or lose its braking effect. Have the vehicle recovered if need be.

Before you start

The brakes are what stops the vehicle: a caliper carrier bolt that is left loose or reused where a new one is required, a disc that does not lie flat on its hub, a twisted brake hose or grease on a friction surface can cause the brakes to fail. Do this job only if you have the vehicle manufacturer's procedure for your vehicle and axle, its tightening specifications and the tools they call for, and are certain of every step. Otherwise leave it to a workshop, or have your work checked by one before you drive on the road.

  • Obtain the vehicle manufacturer's procedure before you start: the design of the brake on the axle concerned, how the caliper, its carrier and the disc are removed and fitted, which fixings must be replaced with new ones, the tightening specifications for the carrier's bolts, the caliper's fixings, any screw that locates the disc and the wheel fixings, how the hub is prepared, whether and how the run-out of the hub and the disc is measured, and what the parking brake needs before and after the job.
  • Find out how the disc is held on your axle. This guide covers a disc that is slid over the hub, as a rule located by one or more small screws or clips, and clamped by the wheel. On some axles the disc forms one part with the wheel bearing or sits behind the hub, so that the hub's nut or the hub itself has to come off. That includes work on the wheel bearing with its own procedure, tools and tightening specifications: leave it to a workshop unless you are equipped and practised for it.
  • Find out how the parking brake acts on the axle you are working on. On some rear axles it acts on the calipers, and on vehicles with an electric parking brake it has to be put into the service position the vehicle manufacturer provides before the caliper is opened. On other rear axles the parking brake has shoes of its own that work inside a drum formed by the hub part of the disc; the disc then comes off only with the parking brake released and, if need be, its shoes backed off at their adjuster, and the parking brake has to be adjusted again afterwards as the vehicle manufacturer describes.
  • Replace the discs of both wheels of an axle together, with two discs of the same part number where the supplier does not list separate left and right parts, and fit new brake pads with new discs. Never replace one disc alone, and never run worn pads on new discs.
  • Changing the discs includes changing the pads. This guide describes what concerns the discs; the removal and fitting of the pads, pushing back the pistons, the brake fluid level, the wear sensor and the parking brake are described in the brake pad guide linked below. Read it first, and have the tools and observe the precautions that job needs.
  • Brake dust is harmful when breathed in. Do not blow a brake clean with compressed air and do not brush it dry in a way that raises dust: use brake cleaner and catch what runs off, and wear a dust mask, eye protection and gloves.
  • Park the vehicle on firm, level ground and switch off the ignition. Chock the wheels that stay on the ground on both sides. Where you work on the axle the parking brake acts on, the parking brake has to be released for the job as the vehicle manufacturer describes, so the chocks alone hold the vehicle: select a gear or the park position as well where that holds the vehicle, and make sure that it cannot roll before you raise it.
  • Raise the vehicle only at the points the vehicle manufacturer gives and support it on axle stands made for its weight. Never work on a vehicle that is held up by a jack alone, and keep it securely supported for as long as you work on or inspect the brake. Loosen the wheel fixings slightly while the wheel still stands on the ground, and remove them only once the vehicle rests securely on the stands.
  • Let the brakes cool before you touch them: discs and calipers stay hot long after a drive.
  • Work on one wheel at a time and leave the other side assembled, so that you can see how the parts belong. Do not press the brake pedal or operate the parking brake while a caliper is off its disc or pads are out: the piston would be pushed out.

How to replace brake pads

Choose the right brake discs

Brake discs differ in their diameter, their thickness, their height, the diameter of their centring bore, the number and the circle of their wheel fixing holes, and in whether they are solid or vented. The same model is often built with several brake systems, depending on the engine, the equipment and the production period, and the front and the rear axle can take different discs. A disc that can be slid over the hub is not therefore the right one: a disc of the wrong diameter or thickness does not match the caliper and the pads, and one of the wrong height stands in the wrong place in the caliper. Fit only discs that are listed for your vehicle and axle and match the brake system fitted to it.

Select your vehicle with the selector on this page to find the part numbers suppliers list for its engine. On the vehicle's part page, each part number is shown with the specifications its supplier states, such as the brake disc type, the outer diameter, the thickness and the minimum thickness, the height, the centring diameter, the number of holes and their pitch circle, the surface, a test mark such as ECE-R90, and what is supplied with the disc. Under the part's name the page shows a fitting position, such as the front or the rear axle, where the supplier states one.

  • Type: suppliers state, for example, that a disc is solid, vented or internally vented, and for some discs that it is perforated, slotted or a two-piece brake disc. Take the type your vehicle's brake is built for; a solid disc and a vented disc are not interchangeable.
  • Dimensions: where discs of several diameters or thicknesses are listed for your vehicle, measure the diameter and read the markings of the discs fitted, and identify the brake system on the axle concerned before you buy. The thickness of a worn disc is smaller than that of a new one and does not identify it by itself.
  • Surface: suppliers state that a disc is coated or oiled. An oiled disc carries a protective oil that has to be removed completely with brake cleaner before fitting. A coated disc is as a rule fitted as supplied, and its coating is not removed; follow the instructions supplied with the disc in either case.
  • What is supplied: for some part numbers the supplier states that the disc comes with or without bolts or screws, with or without an ABS sensor ring, or without an integrated wheel bearing. Check what is in the box against what your brake needs and what the vehicle manufacturer's procedure requires to be replaced, and obtain separately any fixing that has to be new and is not included. Where the disc on your vehicle carries the sensor ring for the wheel speed sensor, the new disc must have one too.
  • Discs are as a rule sold singly: a pair is needed for an axle. Some discs are made for one side of the vehicle only; where a supplier lists a left and a right part, fit each on its side.
  • Brake pads: obtain a new brake pad set for the same axle and brake system together with the discs.
  • Where more than one disc is listed for an axle, they can be equivalent parts from different suppliers or parts intended for different versions of the vehicle. Where a supplier states conditions for a part number, such as a production period, a chassis number range or an equipment code, the vehicle's part page shows them with that part number: check them against your vehicle. If what is stated does not settle whether the disc fits, ask the supplier or the vehicle manufacturer before you buy.

Compare the new discs with the old ones before you fit them, but do not take the old ones as the specification: discs that were fitted earlier may themselves have been the wrong ones. What decides is the part number listed for your engine whose stated conditions match your vehicle, its axle and its brake system, and a difference in diameter, height, centring bore, holes or type needs the supplier's or the vehicle manufacturer's confirmation.

All brake disc OE numbers in the catalogue

Remove the caliper and the old disc

  1. Secure, raise and support the vehicle as described under Before you start, and check that it stands securely on the stands before you take a wheel off. Where the vehicle has an electric parking brake on the axle concerned, put it into its service position as the vehicle manufacturer describes, at the point the procedure requires. Release a mechanical parking brake that acts on the axle.
  2. Remove the wheel fixings and the wheel. Look at the brake before you take anything apart and record how it is assembled, for example with a photograph, including the routing of the brake hose and of the leads of the wear sensor and the wheel speed sensor.
  3. Remove the brake pads as the brake pad guide describes, with the tools and the precautions that job needs, including the check of the brake fluid level before the pistons are pushed back.
  4. Remove the caliper and its carrier as the vehicle manufacturer describes. On a floating caliper the carrier is as a rule held to the hub carrier by two bolts that are tightened very firmly: undo them with a tool that fits exactly, and support the caliper as the last bolt comes out. A fixed caliper is unbolted from the hub carrier as a whole. Do not open the brake hose's connection.
  5. Hang the caliper from the suspension with a hook or wire so that its weight is not on the brake hose and the hose is neither twisted nor kinked. Never let a caliper hang by its hose. Keep the leads of the wear sensor and the wheel speed sensor out of the way without straining them.
  6. Where the disc is located by a screw or screws, undo them with a bit that fits exactly and is seated fully, since such screws are often seized and their heads are easily damaged. Take off any locating clips on the wheel studs, where the hub has studs. A screw whose head has been damaged is removed by the method the vehicle manufacturer or a workshop provides, without damaging the hub's thread.
  7. Where the parking brake's shoes work inside the disc, make sure that the parking brake is fully released, and back the shoes off at their adjuster as the vehicle manufacturer describes if the disc does not come free.
  8. Pull the disc off the hub squarely. A disc that is held by corrosion is freed as the vehicle manufacturer describes: where the disc has threaded holes for the purpose, by screwing suitable bolts into them evenly, otherwise by blows with the soft-faced hammer on the hub part of the old disc between the wheel fixing holes, turning the disc between blows. Wear eye protection, strike only a disc that is being replaced, and do not strike the wheel studs, the hub, the sensor ring or the wheel speed sensor. The disc is heavy: do not let it fall onto your feet or the brake hose.

From the removal of the pads until the caliper is assembled again with new pads over the new disc, nobody may press the brake pedal or operate the parking brake. A piston that is pushed out too far loses its seal, and the brake then has to be repaired and bled before the vehicle can be used.

Clean and check the hub

  1. Clean the hub's contact surface for the disc as the vehicle manufacturer describes: remove all dirt and corrosion with the wire brush or the hub cleaning tool, over the whole surface, around the wheel studs or bolt holes and on the centring collar, until the surface is clean and flat, without removing a protective coating that the procedure says is to stay. Even a thin layer of rust or dirt that is left under the disc can make it run out of true and cause pulsation later. Do not remove metal from the surface, and do not damage the threads, the wheel studs, the sensor ring or the wheel speed sensor. Wipe the surface with brake cleaner on a cloth.
  2. Check the hub. Its contact surface must be flat and undamaged, without burrs or dents. Turn the hub by hand: the wheel bearing has to run smoothly and quietly and without perceptible play. Where the vehicle manufacturer's procedure provides for measuring the run-out of the hub, measure it with a dial gauge as the procedure describes and compare it with the permitted value.
  3. Where the disc you removed carried the sensor ring for the wheel speed sensor, or the ring sits on the hub or the bearing beside it, keep the ring and the sensor free of dirt, grease and metal particles, and do not bring a magnet or a magnetised tool near a magnetic ring.
  4. Check the caliper, its guide pins and boots, the brake hose and the wear sensor as the brake pad guide describes, and clean the carrier's guide surfaces for the pads. Clean the threads of the carrier's bolt holes in the hub carrier as the vehicle manufacturer describes where old thread-locking compound remains in them.
  5. Where the parking brake's shoes work inside the disc, look at the shoes, their springs and their adjuster while the disc is off: linings that are worn, come away or soaked with oil or grease, and broken or missing springs, have to be repaired by the vehicle manufacturer's procedure or by a workshop before the new disc goes on. This guide does not cover that work.
  6. Apply a corrosion protection product or paste to the hub's contact surface or the centring collar only if the vehicle manufacturer's procedure provides for it, and then only the product it specifies and as thinly as it describes. Never put any such product on the wheel studs or the threads of the wheel fixings unless the vehicle manufacturer provides for it, and never on a braked surface.

If the wheel bearing runs roughly or has play, the hub's contact surface is damaged or its run-out is beyond the permitted value, a piston or guide pin is seized, brake fluid is escaping anywhere or a hose is damaged, do not fit the new disc onto it. Have these faults repaired first; repairs that open the hydraulic system include bleeding the brakes, which this guide does not cover.

Fit the new disc and the pads

  1. Check the new disc against the part number listed for the vehicle and compare it with the old one, as described under Choose the right brake discs. Do not fit a disc that has been dropped, is damaged or differs from what is listed until the difference has been cleared up. Where a supplier lists a left and a right part, make sure that you have the disc for this side.
  2. Prepare the disc as its instructions describe. Remove the protective oil of an oiled disc completely from the braked surfaces and the contact surface with brake cleaner and a clean cloth, and let the cleaner evaporate. Leave the coating of a coated disc in place unless its instructions say otherwise. Do not touch the braked surfaces with greasy fingers afterwards.
  3. Check that the contact surface inside the new disc and the hub's contact surface are clean and that nothing lies between them. Slide the disc squarely over the hub so that its locating hole or holes line up with those of the hub, and make sure that it lies flat against the hub all round.
  4. Fit the disc's locating screw or screws, new ones where the vehicle manufacturer requires them to be replaced or they are supplied with the disc, and tighten them according to the vehicle manufacturer's specification. They only locate the disc: do not overtighten them. Refit locating clips only if the vehicle manufacturer's procedure provides for them.
  5. Where the vehicle manufacturer's procedure provides for measuring the run-out of the fitted disc, clamp the disc to the hub as the procedure describes, measure the run-out at the braked surface with the dial gauge and compare it with the permitted value. If it is beyond that value, take the disc off again, check both contact surfaces for dirt and damage, and follow the procedure for what to do next; do not fit the brake over a disc that runs out of true.
  6. Push the caliper's pistons back as the brake pad guide describes, if this has not been done yet, watching the brake fluid level.
  7. Fit the caliper's carrier, or the fixed caliper, over the disc. Use new bolts where the vehicle manufacturer requires them to be replaced, prepare the threads as the procedure describes, start each bolt by hand and tighten them according to the vehicle manufacturer's specification with a torque wrench, including any further tightening by angle that the specification gives. Check that the disc turns freely between the carrier's arms without touching.
  8. Fit the new brake pads, their clips, shims and springs, the caliper and the wear sensor as the brake pad guide describes, with new fixings where they are required and every fixing tightened according to the specification. Check that the brake hose is not twisted and that the leads of the wear sensor and the wheel speed sensor run through every holder as they did before, clear of the wheel, the disc and the suspension.
  9. Compare the finished brake with the side that is still assembled or with your record, and check that no tool, cloth, hook or wire remains on the brake. Remove fingermarks and grease from the braked surfaces with brake cleaner on a clean cloth, and let it evaporate fully.
  10. Fit the wheel after cleaning its contact surface as the vehicle manufacturer describes. Start every wheel fixing by hand and tighten them evenly in a diagonal sequence. Then do the same work on the other wheel of the axle.

A carrier bolt that is not tightened as specified, or an old bolt reused where a new one is required, can let the caliper come away from the hub carrier while driving. Check the carrier's bolts and the caliper's fixings on both wheels before the wheels go on.

Finish and test the brakes

  1. With both wheels of the axle fitted and the vehicle still securely supported on the stands, press the brake pedal slowly and repeatedly until it is firm and its travel is normal. On the first strokes the pedal can travel much further than usual, until the pistons have brought the pads into contact with the discs; the brake does not work properly before that. Do not press the pedal to the floor with force on the first strokes.
  2. Deal with the parking brake as the vehicle manufacturer describes: take an electric parking brake out of its service position and carry out any step the procedure requires afterwards; operate a mechanical parking brake that acts on the calipers several times and check its adjustment; and where the parking brake's shoes work inside the disc, adjust them and, where the procedure provides for it, bed them in as it describes.
  3. With the vehicle still supported and the brakes released, turn each wheel of the axle by hand: it has to turn, with at most light contact of the pads and without scraping. Look at both calipers with the lamp: no fluid may be escaping. A wheel that is held fast, drags heavily or scrapes has a cause that is found before the vehicle is lowered.
  4. Lower the vehicle onto its wheels and tighten the wheel fixings in a diagonal sequence according to the vehicle manufacturer's specification with a torque wrench. Uneven tightening can distort a new disc. Where the vehicle manufacturer's instructions call for the wheel fixings to be checked again later, do that as they describe.
  5. Check the brake fluid level and the warnings in the instrument panel as the brake pad guide describes. If the pedal stays soft, sinks under steady pressure or travels further than before, or if a brake warning or a warning of the anti-lock or stability system stays on, do not drive: have the vehicle checked by a workshop.
  6. Before the vehicle moves at all, press the brake pedal once more and make sure that it is firm. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe place away from traffic before you drive on the road: the vehicle has to brake evenly, without pulling to one side, without pulsation and without unusual noise, and the parking brake has to hold it.
  7. New discs and pads do not give their full braking effect at once. Bed them in as the makers of the discs and the pads describe; unless those instructions say otherwise, brake gently and early over the first drives, avoid hard and prolonged braking as far as traffic allows, and leave more distance than usual. Look at the brakes and the fluid level again after the first drives.
  8. Hand in the old discs as scrap metal, and the old pads, any brake fluid drawn off and used cleaning cloths at a collection point for hazardous waste or where you bought the parts.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Working on a vehicle that is not securely supported on axle stands
  • Replacing one disc only, or fitting worn pads to new discs
  • Fitting a new disc onto a hub that has not been cleaned of dirt and corrosion
  • Fitting an oiled disc without removing its protective oil, or touching the braked surfaces with greasy hands
  • Reusing carrier bolts that the vehicle manufacturer requires to be replaced, or tightening them by feel
  • Letting a caliper hang by its brake hose, or fitting it with the hose twisted
  • Pressing the brake pedal while a caliper is off or pads are out
  • Striking the hub, the wheel studs or the sensor ring to free a disc
  • Overtightening the disc's locating screw, or tightening the wheel fixings unevenly
  • Fitting a solid disc in place of a vented one, or a disc of another diameter or height
  • Fitting new discs to a brake with a seized piston or guide pin, or to a hub with a worn wheel bearing
  • Putting grease or paste on the wheel fixings or on a braked surface
  • Moving the vehicle before the brake pedal has been pressed until it is firm
  • Braking hard on new discs and pads that have not been bedded in

What the suppliers state

From the 17934 part numbers listed as Brake Disc on our vehicle pages (4417 OE numbers, 15701 vehicles). The values differ from part to part: use the one stated for the part you fit, and your vehicle manufacturer’s value where it gives one.

SpecificationParts stating itValues, with the number of parts
Brake Disc Type13732
  • Vented × 5775
  • solid × 4071
  • vented × 1469
  • Ventilated × 679
  • internally vented × 649
  • Solid × 552
  • Perforated × 393
  • two-piece brake disc × 371
  • Externally Vented × 287
  • slotted × 185
  • Aluminium Brake Disc Hub × 144
  • perforated/vented × 115
  • +12
Brake disc version568
  • ventilated × 362
  • Full × 205
  • Two-piece brake disc × 45
  • Slotted/perforated × 7
  • Perforated × 4
  • Perforated/ventilated × 1
Brake Disc Thickness12711
  • 22 mm × 1706
  • 10 mm × 1222
  • 30 mm × 1219
  • 24 mm × 1137
  • 12 mm × 994
  • 28 mm × 827
  • 20 mm × 820
  • 26 mm × 528
  • 25 mm × 512
  • 36 mm × 496
  • 11 mm × 332
  • 8 mm × 287
  • +172
Maximum thickness569
  • 22 mm × 74
  • 24 mm × 58
  • 30 mm × 48
  • 12 mm × 45
  • 10 mm × 42
  • 20 mm × 33
  • 28 mm × 32
  • 36 mm × 25
  • 25 mm × 24
  • 26 mm × 22
  • 8 mm × 20
  • 11 mm × 19
  • +43
Minimum thickness10172
  • 8 mm × 676
  • 20 mm × 573
  • 10 mm × 567
  • 28 mm × 506
  • 20.4 mm × 412
  • 22.4 mm × 392
  • 26 mm × 357
  • 18.4 mm × 348
  • 7 mm × 335
  • 28.4 mm × 316
  • 8.4 mm × 286
  • 22 mm × 259
  • +200
Minimum Thickness of Brake Disc948
  • 22,4 mm × 66
  • 10 mm × 51
  • 20,4 mm × 50
  • 34,4 mm × 50
  • 8 mm × 50
  • 18,4 mm × 47
  • 20 mm × 46
  • 28 mm × 45
  • 28,4 mm × 43
  • 26 mm × 38
  • 7 mm × 36
  • 8,4 mm × 31
  • +65
Minimum brake disc thickness569
  • 22,4 mm × 34
  • 8 mm × 34
  • 20 mm × 32
  • 10 mm × 31
  • 7 mm × 29
  • 18,4 mm × 25
  • 20,4 mm × 24
  • 28,4 mm × 21
  • 28 mm × 21
  • 34,4 mm × 21
  • 9,5 mm × 21
  • 26 mm × 16
  • +69
Outer Diameter12761
  • 280 mm × 1032
  • 300 mm × 754
  • 330 mm × 449
  • 345 mm × 387
  • 256 mm × 358
  • 290 mm × 351
  • 320 mm × 346
  • 348 mm × 326
  • 302 mm × 302
  • 324 mm × 301
  • 294 mm × 296
  • 239 mm × 265
  • +362
Height12628
  • 44 mm × 566
  • 48 mm × 310
  • 66 mm × 256
  • 73 mm × 239
  • 47 mm × 226
  • 35 mm × 216
  • 34.2 mm × 188
  • 61 mm × 165
  • 62 mm × 164
  • 52 mm × 149
  • 77 mm × 140
  • 34 mm × 133
  • +880
Centering Diameter9687
  • 68 mm × 1611
  • 75 mm × 1306
  • 65 mm × 1030
  • 79 mm × 1021
  • 61 mm × 574
  • 66 mm × 482
  • 71 mm × 480
  • 67 mm × 425
  • 85 mm × 228
  • 76 mm × 176
  • 71.1 mm × 153
  • 52.3 mm × 147
  • +214
Centre Diameter950
  • 68 mm × 168
  • 75 mm × 134
  • 65 mm × 104
  • 79 mm × 94
  • 67 mm × 72
  • 61 mm × 51
  • 71 mm × 39
  • 66 mm × 29
  • 52,3 mm × 28
  • 76 mm × 20
  • 71,1 mm × 18
  • 85 mm × 18
  • +45
Hub diameter605
  • 68 mm × 92
  • 75 mm × 75
  • 65 mm × 57
  • 79 mm × 53
  • 67 mm × 30
  • 61 mm × 27
  • 66 mm × 24
  • 61,98 mm × 17
  • 71,07 mm × 14
  • 71,1 mm × 13
  • 71 mm × 13
  • 76 mm × 11
  • +80
Rim Hole Number3107
  • 5 -Hole × 2164
  • 4 -Hole × 552
  • 5 × 229
  • 4 × 63
  • 9 -Hole × 39
  • 6 -Hole × 35
  • 10 -Hole × 7
  • 3 -Hole × 5
  • 9 × 5
  • 6 × 3
  • 8 -Hole × 2
  • 0 × 1
  • +2
Number of holes7799
  • 5 × 5440
  • 4 × 1884
  • 6 × 163
  • 9 × 149
  • 10 × 98
  • 3 × 45
  • 8 × 16
  • 7 × 5
  • 2 × 1
No. of Wheel Bolt/Stud Holes973
  • 5 × 756
  • 4 × 176
  • 6 × 34
  • 8 × 4
  • 3 × 2
  • 10 × 1
Bolt Hole Circle Ø7425
  • 120 mm × 1791
  • 112 mm × 1564
  • 108 mm × 1180
  • 100 mm × 1056
  • 130 mm × 354
  • 114.3 mm × 204
  • 98 mm × 166
  • 118 mm × 121
  • 65 mm × 84
  • 114 mm × 83
  • 68 mm × 81
  • 114,3 mm × 78
  • +92
Pitch Circle Diameter1551
  • 120 mm × 383
  • 112 mm × 369
  • 108 mm × 257
  • 100 mm × 233
  • 114,3 mm × 106
  • 130 mm × 74
  • 118 mm × 37
  • 98 mm × 31
  • 114 mm × 10
  • 127 mm × 10
  • 107,95 mm × 9
  • 139,7 mm × 8
  • +7
Surface7011
  • Coated × 5334
  • painted × 613
  • Oiled × 431
  • Zink flake coated × 287
  • Cross-hatch × 218
  • UV paint coated × 163
  • oiled and coated × 81
  • oiled × 52
  • Chrome-(VI)- free passivation × 31
  • Uncoated × 13
  • Powder coated × 3
  • Cathodic Painting × 2
  • +1
Surface type565
  • coated × 331
  • oiled × 232
  • Aluminium-zinc-coated × 1
  • Painted × 1
Processing2676
  • High-carbon × 2140
  • Highly carbonated × 292
  • Alloyed/High-carbon × 219
  • Alloyed/highly carbonated × 20
  • Alloyed × 3
  • Untreated × 2
Test Mark5930
  • R90 Homologated × 1585
  • ECE-R90 × 1234
  • ECE R90 APPROVED × 971
  • K.B.A.: 61209 × 335
  • K.B.A.: 61210 × 238
  • R90 homologated × 209
  • KBA 60872 × 60
  • ohne ABE × 22
  • KBA 60934 × 10
  • E1 90R-02C0165/1152 × 7
  • KBA 61209 × 7
  • E1 90R-02C0165/1150 × 6
  • +998
Contains screws226
  • Yes × 224
  • No × 2
Includes ABS sensor ring78
  • No × 46
  • Yes × 32
Brake System2308
  • TRW × 459
  • ATE × 430
  • Girling × 128
  • Bendix × 125
  • Bosch × 104
  • LUCAS × 102
  • BOSCH × 101
  • BENDIX × 87
  • Ate-Teves × 62
  • TEVES × 62
  • Kelsey-Hayes × 60
  • Lucas / TRW × 59
  • +68
Supplementary Article/Supplementary Info 25369
  • with bolts/screws × 1831
  • without bolts/screws × 1282
  • without ABS sensor ring × 774
  • without integrated wheel bearing × 717
  • without wheel studs × 549
  • without wheel hub × 511
  • without wheel bearing × 500
  • with ABS sensor ring × 388
  • with anti-squeak plate × 385
  • with adhesive film × 312
  • with brake caliper screws × 268
  • with wheel bearing × 234
  • +42

Questions and answers

How often do brake discs have to be replaced?

There is no fixed point. A disc is replaced when its thickness is at or below the smallest thickness the vehicle manufacturer permits, when it would reach that before a new set of pads is worn, or when it is cracked, deeply scored, damaged by heat or badly corroded on its braked surfaces. How quickly that happens depends on the vehicle, the axle, the pads and the way the vehicle is driven, so follow your vehicle manufacturer's schedule for inspecting the brakes, and have the discs measured whenever the pads are changed.

Can I replace one brake disc only?

No. Brake discs are replaced as a pair on an axle, so that both sides brake alike; a new disc opposite a worn one can make the vehicle pull to one side. The front and the rear axle are separate and can be done at different times.

Do new discs need new brake pads?

Yes. Used pads have worn to the shape of the old discs and do not bear evenly on new ones, which reduces the braking effect and can damage the new discs. Fit a new brake pad set for the same axle and brake system together with the discs.

Where do I find the minimum thickness of a brake disc?

The vehicle manufacturer gives it, and it is as a rule also marked on the disc, on its edge or its hub part. Where the supplier of a brake disc states a minimum thickness, the vehicle's part page shows it beside that part number. Measure the disc's thickness with a micrometer or a caliper gauge that reaches past the ridge at the edge, at several points of the braked surface, and take the smallest reading.

Do new brake discs have to be cleaned before fitting?

That depends on their surface. An oiled disc carries a protective oil that has to be removed completely with brake cleaner before fitting. A coated disc is as a rule fitted as supplied, with its coating left in place. Follow the instructions supplied with the disc, and keep grease and fingermarks off the braked surfaces in either case.

Why does the brake pedal pulsate after new discs were fitted?

Common causes are rust or dirt left between the disc and the hub, a hub or wheel bearing that does not run true, wheel fixings tightened unevenly or not according to the specification, a disc that was damaged or dropped, and pads that are not yet bedded in or were overheated during the first drives. Have the brake taken apart again and checked, with the vehicle secured and supported as described, and have the run-out of the hub and the disc measured as the vehicle manufacturer describes.

Can worn brake discs be machined instead of replaced?

Only where the vehicle manufacturer permits it and the disc stays above its smallest permitted thickness afterwards, with a reserve for wear. That is workshop work with special equipment, and this guide does not cover it. A disc that is cracked, damaged by heat or at its smallest permitted thickness is replaced.

Which brake discs fit my car?

Select the make, model and engine on this page. The vehicle's page lists the part numbers that suppliers state for that engine, each with the specifications its supplier gives, where it gives any. The same model is often built with several brake systems, so compare the diameter, the thickness, the height, the holes and any conditions the supplier states with the brake on the axle concerned.